Sunday, 23 September 2007
Cruzin' in Guilin on the River Li
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:14 am 0 comments
Thursday, 20 September 2007
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Today we took a chairlift to see Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from a plateau below the mountain itself. The chairlift climbed the slope flanked by spruce trees with views that stretched forever. Once at the top, we meandered along a plank walkway for about 500 metres through spruce and moss covered slopes to a large green open field within the forest. Here we had a clear view of the mountain before us.
The mountain is imposing and grand, overlooking the plains below with its permanently snow-capped peak often shrouded in cloud. You can clearly see the peak from Li Jiang, as it stands as a backdrop, towering over all around it.
In the days when the NaXi People had arranged marriages, lovers who didn't have their families' consent would climb the mountain to spend 3 days of happiness together before jumping off this local Lovers' Leap with the expectation that they would spend eternity in paradise together.
Posted by Helen Proud at 9:09 pm 0 comments
Birthday in Li Jiang
Posted by Helen Proud at 8:36 pm 0 comments
Wednesday, 19 September 2007
The NaXi People of Yunnan Province
The performance was full of colour and music, telling legendary stories of past conflicts and victories. There was singing and dancing, light and movement. Intricate costumes that must have taken hundreds of hours to prepare.
Posted by Helen Proud at 9:27 pm 0 comments
Labels: Ethnic Minority, NaXi, Yunnan Province
Where do you go when you dream?
Posted by Helen Proud at 8:34 pm 0 comments
Monday, 17 September 2007
The Flying Tigers of Yunnan
Captain Claire L. Chennault set up a squadron at the request of Madame Chiang Kai-Shek, who had taken over the task of reorganising the Chinese Air Force. He ended up with a squadron of volunteer ex-US airmen, who were basically mercenaries acting outside the authority of the US Government. However, connections in high places eventually saw the squadron successfully equipped and transported to China.
Their air base was located by the Yang Zong Lake, near Kunming. Unfortunately this was destroyed, not by the Japanese, but by the Red Army during the Cultural Revolution. However the barracks that the aviators lived in are still standing today and have been protected by the Chinese Government, as a historic site.
Posted by Helen Proud at 11:06 pm 2 comments
Labels: Flying Tigers, Yunnan Province
The Stone Forests of Kunming
270 million years ago the terrain on which Kunming in China's Yunnan Province stands, was seabed with massive coral reefs. As a result of the collision of the tectonic plates of India and China, the seabed rose to form the Himalayan Mountains and surrounding high country.
In the process, the coral became the limestone which is now the Stone Forest of Kunming, a major attraction lying 120km east of the city. In spite of the rain our fearless guide Nancy (The Pocket Rocket) Wu, ensured that we had and exciting and interesting visit.
Yunnan Province is home to 26 of the 55 ethnic minorities in China. Their costumes are colourful and flamboyant and are worn by the staff in many of the local restaurants and tourist attractions.
On the way back from the Stone Forest, we stopped to enjoy a traditional tea ceremony. Our hosts wore traditional dress as they explained about the various types of tea produced in the area, before inviting us to spend our Yuan and take some tea home with us.
Posted by Helen Proud at 10:42 pm 0 comments
Labels: china, Kunming, Stone Forest, Tea Ceremony, Yunnan Province
Sunday, 16 September 2007
Panda Antics
Keeper:
Please panda, do come down from the tree. It is time for your lunch and a nice sleep.
Posted by Helen Proud at 10:37 am 1 comments
Labels: Panda
The Pandas of Chengdu
Posted by Helen Proud at 10:30 am 0 comments
Friday, 14 September 2007
Renmin Park
Renmin (People's) Park is a place where you can go to escape the bustle and noise of the inner city. The residents of Chengdu take their Tai Chi and dancing as seriously as those in Beijing. At any time you can see groups of men and women, (mostly senior citizens but with a smattering of all ages) practicing under the guidance of a tutor, or just dancing to the music which seems to be playing for anyone who wishes to join in.
I walked through an archway to the tea house to sit and absorb the atmosphere. A sound resembling a thousand moaning ghosts emanated from inside a small pagoda. I went to investigate and found a group of people practicing on instruments resembling a violin. I approached the tutor and she eagerly insisted that I sit and try my hand at some music. The instrument, which is called an erhu consisted of a violin-like body with just one double strand of string, The bow passed between the two strands of the string so that it was captive and inseparable from the instrument. I managed a slightly recognizable bar of "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star" before thanking the tutor and heading for the tea house.
I was offered a menu in Chinese of green teas. The waitress brought my attention to the most expensive item on the menu, being about double the price of everything else. I agreed to the proposal and waited for service. In a few minutes, I was served with a bowl of green tea leaves, a large thermos of hot water and a plate of roasted sunflower seeds. This, it seemed, was the premier offering of the establishment.
The young woman poured some water into the lidded bowl for me and showed me how to crack the sunflower seeds. She also enquired if I wanted a massage. I politely refused and thanked her for the tea. Several free-lance masseuses came to pester me for a massage. One man had a tuning fork like device and a brush with a metal stem. He struck the brush on the tuning fork to make it vibrate and then indicated that it was to be inserted into my ear. I replied "boo-yow" (no thanks) and he left me in peace.
Sunflower seeds are very popular with Chinese people and may account for their slim build. You spend so much time and energy opening the husk that the tiny morsel inside cannot possibly replenish it. I sipped my tea and relaxed. This is a city that I could put up with for a long time if I had to.
Posted by Helen Proud at 9:08 pm 0 comments
Traffic and Optimism
Meanwhile I enjoyed wandering the streets of this beautiful city. A street-sweeping truck passed by and alerted the traffic to its presence by playing the tune "Happy Birthday To You" repeatedly in the manner of a "Mr Whippy" ice cream van. You couldn't miss it a kilometre away. The streets are scrupulously clean, as are the footpaths. The moment any fragment of rubbish hits the ground it is scooped up by a vest-wearing person with a broom and a dustpan. The only place in Australia that I have seen such fervor for cleanliness is at Byron Bay.
Traffic is more orderly in proud Chengdu than in other cities that I have seen here so far. The throng of bicycles and electric scooters mixing with traffic and pedestrians poses a challenge to road protocol and numerous traffic wardens, dressed in black slacks and an orange vest, are stationed at intersections to ensure that a semblance of order is maintained. No one seems to be penalised for transgressions, beyond half-a-dozen shrill bursts from the whistle and a wave of the red flag. This, in a country where tax evasion can attract the death penalty. To our way of thinking, China is a complex array of contradictions. They seem to have adopted gentle persuasion for traffic control in lieu of hash penalties and it seems to work, most of the time.
The one thing that stood out for me was the warmth of the people here who all wanted to either practice their 'In-galish' or just extend a warm welcome, when they learned that I was from 'O-adalia'.
Posted by Helen Proud at 8:46 pm 0 comments
Labels: Chengdu, Mao, Science and Technology Museum, traffic
Arriving in Chengdu
Chengdu is a city of 12 million people located in the Sichuan Province of China. It is famous for it's panda breeding centre and exhibit.
We flew in at about 5pm on 13th of September and discovered that there had been a change in our hotel reservation from the Chengdu Tibet hotel to the Minshan Hotel. We were assured that it was equivalent in quality, but in a much better location being in the city instead of out in the 'burbs among the immigrant workers. The hotel was indeed very comfortable and within walking distance we could visit the Rinmin (People's) Park, the Science and Technology Museum or walk along the river.
After a deep and comfortable sleep and a sumptuous breakfast, I set out to discover the city. A statue of Chairman Mao dominated the square in front of the Science and Technology Museum. Mao is dropping out of favour with the Chinese for his indiscretions of the Cultural Revolution. Notwithstanding this, whenever his name has to be mentioned, it is done so with an air of reverence and respect. After all, he is the one who headed up the Long March and founded the People's Republic of China. Like a revered great uncle, who once was head of the family but fell and ended up in prison, once spoken, his name is put aside and the subject is changed. One day, perhaps he will no longer appear on their bank notes and when that happens, we will know that his banishment from their consciousness will be complete. But that will take several generations.
The Science and Technology Museum is modern and proudly displays everything from information technology to space and nuclear science. Throngs of school children fill the halls, filling the air with the musical sound of a thousand young voices electrified with excitement.
A group of young girls surrounded me as if I was a rock star. They wanted to shake my hand and speak with me in 'In-galish'. They enthusiastically posed with waving hands for my camera. I was swamped by a sea of eager faces vying for a look at the result on my digital camera screen.
Further on in the mechanical science section, a lad of about 12 years old wanted to engage in a deep and meaningful conversation with me about the exhibit in front of us, but a look of disappointed resignation came over him when he realized that my Mandarin was limited to "nihow" (hello) and "shay shay" (thank you). He didn't speak any 'In-galish'.
Posted by Helen Proud at 8:28 pm 0 comments
Thursday, 13 September 2007
Yamdrok Tso Lake
When we arrived at the top, the view of the lake, with a backdrop of snow-capped mountains was to die for. A couple of the locals were enterprising and provided some amusement, with a saddled yak that could be ridden with the opportunity to take photos, for a small donation.
We descended the mountain again, calling in on an elementary school in a local village to pass on some gifts that each of us had brought with us. Education in Tibet is compulsory up to 9th grade. This year, school fees have been abolished, making it easier for families, particularly those on very low incomes. The children are delightful and gave us a warm reception.
It was then back to the hotel for our final night in Lhasa. We went out to dinner at a fabulous restaurant for a final farewell to our wonderful guide, Chimpel and our hat wearing, ever-smiling driver, Lobsang.
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:42 am 0 comments
Labels: Yamdrok Tso Lake
Tuesday, 11 September 2007
Shigatse & Gyantse
The trip from Lhasa to Shigatse took about four-and-a-half hours. First stop was the Tashilhunpo Monastery, founded by the first Dali Lama in 1447. It is one of four monasteries of the Yellow Hat Sect of the Buddhist religion. Many sacred relics are housed here and the site is 70,000 square metres in area.
At Gyantse we toured a monastery and a Stupa, or Buddha house. The Stupa has 77 rooms, each with a depiction of one of the Buddhas in the form of a colourful statue. By climbing up internal staircases and ladders, it was possible to reach a balcony that ran around the outside of the stupa at a considerable elevation. This gave wonderful views of the surrounding town and rural areas beyond.
Gyantse was the theatre for a bloody attack on the local population by the British in the late 19th century. Britain was concerned that her rival, Russia, may take control of Tibet so it decided to do so herself before Russia had a chance. Britain attacked the fort at Gyantse and it is said that in four minutes, 700 local Tibetans were dead and Britain suffered just four casualties.
Today, like all cities in Tibet, Gyantse is well and truly run by the Chinese, via the Tibetan "Autonomous" Government. One thing that is very evident in all the ares that we have visited in Tibet, is the high level of infrastructure investment Beijing has made in this country. It seems that you can get mobile phone coverage almost anywhere. The roads are pretty good and everyone seems to have electricity.
We wandered down the streets of Gyantse, taking photos of the locals and their wares, before returning to Shigatse for a well earned rest.
Posted by Helen Proud at 11:28 pm 0 comments
Did you hear the one about...
A Tibetan, a Chinese and a Japanese were all travelling together on a small aircraft from Lhasa to Shigatse.
The Japanese took out his camera and threw it out of the window of the plane. Startled, the Chinese asked him why he had done this.
"We have plenty of those where I come from, I don't need it" replied the Japanese.
The Chinese took out his radio and threw it out of the window. “Why did you do that?" asked the Tibetan.
"We have plenty of those where I come from" replied the Chinese. "I don't need it" he added.
The Tibetan thought for a moment. He had nothing to throw out of the window. Without warning he grabbed the Chinese by the throat and threw him out of the window.
Alarmed, the Japanese asked him why he had done such a thing. "We have plenty of them where I come from, I don't need it!" was the reply.
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:27 am 0 comments
Winnowing the grain
Another important grain is millet, which provides Tibetans with cooking oil, as well as straw to make brooms. We stopped on the side of the road to watch these men and women winnowing the millet.
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:14 am 0 comments
Monday, 10 September 2007
Ganden Monastery.
Before the Chinese invasion of 1959 it was home to 3,300 monks. During the cultural revolution in China, the monastery was badly damaged by the Red Guard. restoration has been underway for some time but is still not complete. Only 300 monks remain at the monastery today.
We drove along the wide valley floor, flanked by steeply rising grass-covered mountains on which yak and sheep were grazing. The road turned up the mountainside sharply and zig-zagged towards the monastery through about 50 hairpin bends. It was narrow, but well sealed.
Below the monastery an old man and some young boys were employed chasing the wandering yaks off the road using something very similar to a stock whip which they cracked with gusto and shouted at the unconcerned yak.
We arrived at the monastery and toured around the many buildings among the locals and tourists from afar. Our guide explained about the Buddhist faith as we went from temple to temple. Then a wonderful surprise, as we found ourselves in a temple with hundreds of monks who settled down for a session of chanting which was to last for two hours.
For Y20 (AU$3.30) we were allowed to take photographs of the monks, the statues and the interior decorations.
Posted by Helen Proud at 11:35 pm 0 comments
Labels: Ganden monastery, monks, Tibet
The Drepung Monestary
Zong Khapa founded the Yellow Hat Sect in the 14th Century AD. One of his disciples was named Jamyang Choje. Jamyang Choje built the Drepung Monastery, high on a mountainside overlooking Lhasa in 1416 AD.
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:32 am 0 comments
Labels: Drepung Monestary, Jamhyang Choje, Zong Khapa
King Nya Tri Tsanpo - 1st king of Tibet
In the second century BC, Nya Tri Tsanpo from India decided he would like to travel to Tibet, (as you do). He set off and when he reached the southern mountains of Tibet, he met some herdsmen. They asked him where he came from, but neither understood the other's language. So they communicated with sign language, (as you do).
Nya Tri Tsanpo gestured in the direction of India, but the herdsmen misunderstood the communication and thought that he was pointing to the sky. As everyone there knows, anyone who comes from the sky is very wise, so they asked Tsanpo to be their leader. Tibet at the time had no leader and the population just wandered around and lived in caves. There were no buildings.
Tsanpo agreed to become their king and set about having the first Tibetan building constructed. It was his palace and stood on the site now occupied by the Potala Palace, which was built on the remains of the original Tsanpo palace, 900 years later.
King Tsanpo followed the Bon religion, which was the original Tibetan pagan religion, involving among other things, the worship of animals.
Posted by Helen Proud at 12:18 am 0 comments
Labels: bon religion, king, Tibet Train
Sunday, 9 September 2007
King Gampo and the Jokhang Temple
Sunday 9th September
King Gampo wished to build a temple in which to place many statues and religious artifacts which he had. He asked his Nepalese wife to help him find a suitable location for this temple. Neither he nor his Nepalese wife could find the inspiration to choose the correct site on which to build the temple. They asked the Chinese wife if she could choose a site. The Chinese wife consulted her astrology and found what she believed to be the perfect site for the temple. It was where a lake stood which confounded the King and the Nepalese wife. They didn't believe that this could possibly be the site. It was very controversial.
King Gampo prayed to the Compassionate Buddha to ask for guidance. The Compassionate Buddha showed the finger ring of the Nepalese wive to the king. King Gampo and the Nepalese wife walked around the lake. They threw the ring up into the air and it landed in the lake.
Out of the lake, a vision of a Stupa rose. A Stupa is a Buddha house. From this vision, the king, his Nepalese wife and all the population then believed that the Chinese wife was correct in the choice of the site for the temple. So the king had the temple built on that site.
During construction of the wall which was the first part to be constructed, devils arose at night and destroyed the wall many times. The king placed guards around the construction and they defeated the devils and the construction of the Jokhang Temple was completed successfully.
The Jokhang Temple now stands there and is the most important temple in Tibet.
Posted by Helen Proud at 11:58 pm 0 comments
Labels: Jokhang Temple, Songtsan Gampo
Bakor, Jokhang Temple, Hospital. Sunday 9th Sept.
Buddhist pilgrims and monks walked between the rows of stalls, rotating their prayer wheels in their hands as they circled the Jokhang Temple. Small children interacted with tourists, trying to charm their way to receiving a tip. Some sold snacks from tiny trays while others eyed off our bags, looking for an opportunity to help themselves to unguarded property. There were also beggars in the crowd.
At 11:30 we entered the Jokhang Temple for our tour. This temple was constructed in the 6th century on a site chosen by the one of the king's wives. The site was a lake at the time and was a controversial choice, but she prevailed and the temple was built.
The Jokhang is the most sacred temple in Tibet. It holds magnificent statues of important religious figures. Jok Hang means Buddha House in Tibetan. From the roof of the temple you can get a clear view of the surrounding town, including the Potala Palace.
Posted by Helen Proud at 7:28 pm 0 comments